Having arrived in Spain at Oviedo after crossing the Cantabrian Mountains on foot from the city of León, I had to continue my journey to Santiago. It is here, in the heart of Asturias, that the Camino Primitivo begins, considered the oldest of the routes to Santiago de Compostela. Its history dates back to the beginning of the 9th century, when King Alfonso II undertook this same journey to reach the site where the discovery of the tomb of the Apostle James had just been announced. This sovereign, nicknamed "el Casto" (the Chaste), was renowned for his austere life and profound faith. Historians recount that he lived without a wife and without children, an exceptional fact for a king of his time. This conduct, perceived as exemplary, reinforced his image as a pious and moral ruler and contributed to giving the nascent pilgrimage a spiritual dimension. 

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Leaving Oviedo, you will literally walk in the footsteps of this "first royal pilgrim." This route is prized for its wild character, the unspoiled beauty of its mountain landscapes, and the unique feeling of stepping back in time, especially if you decide, like me, to follow the "Los Hospitales" variant from the small village of Borres, where the ruins of the ancient hospitals where pilgrims were cared for in the Middle Ages still stand.

On the Camino Primitivo, you will undoubtedly be moved, as I was, to be able to walk in the footsteps of hundreds of thousands of walkers who have gone before us.

Unfortunately, I had to stop in Lugo, just 100 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela, because major fires were threatening the entire surrounding area in August 2025.

The harder the journey, the longer the journey lasts.

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buen camino :-) ✨ ⭐ Lionel de Compostelle 🦋